Food & Drink

The Year in Southern Restaurants: Brenner Pass

Richmond, Virginia, chef Brittanny Anderson hits a high mark exploring Alpine cuisine at Brenner Pass

photo: Mel Calabro

The interior at Brenner Pass.

We’re profiling five of 2017’s most exciting new restaurants in the South—one per day, in the order they opened.

Brenner Pass
Richmond, Virginia
Opened: June 2017

For their first restaurant, Metzger, chef Brittanny Anderson and her partners found their niche, serving a modern take on the fare of German-speaking countries with a deep list of Austrian and German wines. But there’s only so much schweinshaxe (crispy pork shank) a gal can sling.

“I was missing cooking French and Italian food,” says Anderson, a Richmond native who studied culinary arts in New York and cut her teeth at Blue Hill at Stone Barns. “I wanted to find a way to tie what I was doing into something a little more global.” So she let geography be her guide.

photo: Kate Thompson

Executive chef and owner Brittanny Anderson.

Named for the mountain pass that leads from Austria to Italy, Brenner Pass serves Alpine food, a kind of Venn diagram–menu of all the national cuisines you’d find in European high country. “I’m doing classic big portions and old school flavors,” Anderson says. “We’re got full-table experiences, like large format fondue, a French farm feast with beef bourguignon and family-style sides, and an Italian bollito misto.”

photo: Mel Calabro


You can hear the joy in Anderson’s voice as she talks about the platters of tinned European seafood served with grissini and spent-grain bread from the house bakery, and the groaning-board cheese cart that rolls through the dining room with dozens of choices. “We taste everyone on cheese, and we sell a lot.”

Don’t miss: Boneless lamb leg with chestnut-armagnac purée, mushrooms, and prune jam.