Queen City Eats

Squire Fox
by John. T. Edge - North Carolina - Oct/Nov 2011

There’s plenty of great food to be found in 
Charlotte—if you know where to look

Also in our Charlotte City Portrait:
> Meet three locals with good taste
> Charlotte's New Course
> See a photo gallery of the Charlote food scene

Brawley’s Beverage

Set in a onetime service station, this odd duck of a beer and wine store is run by Michael Brawley, with assistance from his mother, Jean Brawley. (His daughter, Piper, coos in a bassinet between cases of Haywire Hefeweizen.) Their selection of beers includes fetishized imports such as Hitachino Nest from Japan, but their real strength is North Carolina brews such as Catawba Valley Hyper Monkey Java Stout and Olde Hickory Piedmont Pilsner. 4620 Park Rd.; brawleysbeverage.com

Brooks’ Sandwich House

Topped with a grainy chili and chopped onions, burgers are the most popular bites at this walk-up grease house. But the livermush sandwiches deserve attention, too. The house chili—slightly sweet, barely hot—plays well off the griddle-crisped livermush patties, which the Brooks brothers source from the venerable Jamison Livermush Co. 2710 N. Brevard St.; 704-375-7808

Coffee & More
From a counter-service café, near the entrance to the Bank of America Corporate Training Center, Kamlesh Shah, a native of Gujarat, India, and his son, Parth Shah, pour mango lassis. They dish lunches of pav-bhaji too, a vegetable stew popular in Bombay. But they tuck it in a squishy white bun and serve it like a sloppy joe. 400 S. Tryon St.; 
704-375-6882

Halcyon

Mark Jacksina was not the first chef to use sweet tea as a flavoring for pork (that was probably Ben Barker of Magnolia Grill in Durham). But his rendition—a bone-in chop, with a subtle tannic finish from the tea marinade, riding atop a puddle of polenta—shines with novelty nonetheless. 500 S. Tryon St.;
 halcyonflavors.com

Harvest Moon Grille

Sausage gravy is a plowman’s breakfast, the sort of food a farmer used to eat before tilling the back forty. At this terrazzo-floored restaurant on the ground floor of the Dunhill Hotel, the dish gets a gentle updating. Chef Cassie Parsons makes the breakfast sausage in house, from pigs she raises herself. And she stirs skillet gravy that tastes less like the library-paste norm and more like a spa-slimmed béchamel. 235 N. Tryon St.; harvestmoon
grillecharlotte.com

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