By Annabelle Carr | Feb/March 09 | City Portrait

Sultry Savannah

It was founded as a settlement for misfits, but Georgia's first city has reinvented itself as a cultural haven

EAT

Back in the Day Bakery
Cheryl and Griff Day’s delectable, made-from-scratch cupcakes and cookies have won national accolades and put Savannah’s emerging Starland District on the map. But if you ask me, the best reason to grab a stool at this old-timey bakery counter is the lunch: curried chicken salad on crusty artisan bread. 2403 Bull St.; www.backinthedaybakery.com

The Breakfast Club
A cult favorite. At this unassuming diner by the sea, you’ll find a scrumptious chorizo omelet, hefty burgers, and shrimp ’n’ grits by a chef who catered JFK Jr.’s wedding. Arrive early to avoid lines. Then watch the sun come up over the Atlantic. 1500 Butler Ave., Tybee Island; 912-786-5984

Cha Bella
For a literal taste of Savannah, Matthew Roher combines local seafood, free-range meats and organic produce to reinvent humble favorites. He’s even partnered with sustainable agriculture experts to plant his own seasonal crops. Get the full farm-to-table experience alfresco.
102 E. Broad St.; www.cha-bella.com

Elizabeth on 37th
James Beard award winner Elizabeth Terry may have retired from her post at this institution, but owners Greg and Gary Butch are carrying the torch with creative coastal cuisine, fabulously fussy decor, and a waitstaff that’s attentive to a fault. 105 E. 37th St.; www.elizabethon37th.net

Leopold’s Ice Cream
After a concert at the Trustees or Lucas theater, Savannahians of all ages gather at Stratton Leopold’s refurbished soda fountain, where the Hollywood film producer himself has been known to scoop up fresh batches of the secret ice cream formulas his family has made since 1919. It’s a wonderful tribute to childhood made perfect by the nostalgic touch of a set designer and Stratton’s own collection of movie memorabilia. 212 E. Broughton St.; www.leopoldsicecream.com

Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room
Years after her passing, Mrs. Wilkes’ perfectly seasoned fried chicken recipe still inspires a daily pilgrimage to her family’s brick-lined family-style eatery. Tourists line up on West Jones Street for tables, while locals pick up their steaming picnic suppers in the back alley. 107 W. Jones St.; www.mrswilkes.com

The Olde Pink House
This rose-colored Georgian mansion serves up the ultimate Savannah night out: lively cocktails and chatter at the open-air Arches bar, authentic Lowcountry cuisine in the antique-filled dining room, and marvelous late-night drinks in the cozy basement. Get your sherry-infused she-crab soup fix here. 23 Abercorn St.; 912-232-4286

Walls’ Bar-B-Que
If you share my conviction that the best barbecue comes from parking lots and back alleys, seek out this hidden landmark on a dirt lane near the intersection of Oglethorpe and Hudson. Sauce with the requisite Georgia blend of cayenne and Worcestershire is served on the side. 515 E. York Lane; 912-232-9754

DRINK

Bonna Bella Yacht Club
Panoramic marsh views and stiff cocktails in plastic cups make this ultra-casual dockside bar the place to drink on a fine breezy day. (If no breeze, commandeer a fan: Sand gnats are murder.) 2740 Livingston Ave.; www.bonnabellayachtclub.com

Circa 1875 Gastropub
Adventurous, affordable wines by the glass are listed on the blackboard at this burgeoning gastropub finished with richly burnished wood. 48 Whitaker St.; 912-443-1875

Gallery Espresso
Coffee is the sobering drink of choice at this Chippewa Square gathering place, but since this is Savannah, there’s also a healthy wine list. True to its name, Gallery Espresso exhibits work by
emerging local artists. Ask owner Julianne Davis about her former life in Thoroughbred racing. 234 Bull St.; www.galleryespresso.com

Kevin Barry’s
Historic River Street—a damp strand of T-shirt shops and pirate-themed
tourist traps—is rarely the province of savvy locals. But thanks to a nightly schedule of live Irish music, Kevin Barry’s proves an exception to the rule. 117 W. River St.; www.kevinbarrys.com

Local 11 Ten
I’ve enjoyed some fabulous meals in this sleekly overhauled bank building, but even when I’m not
eating, I rely on Colombian-born bartender Deya Rairan for expertly crafted mojitos and cucumber-laden Hendrick’s gin and tonics. 1110 Bull St.; www.local11ten.com

Moon River
Enjoy a fresh pint of brewmaster John Pinkerton’s mildly sweet Belgian-style Dixie Crystal ale or German-inspired Savannah Fest—brewed on-site before your eyes. 21 W. Bay St., www.moonriverbrewing.com

Pinkie Master’s
I’ve been told that a plaque in Pinkie Master’s commemorates the spot where Jimmy Carter announced his bid for the presidency, but truthfully, I’ve never been sober enough to find it. I doubt I’m alone, since this classic dive bar is the last stop of the night for Savannahians from all walks of life. 318 Drayton St.; 912-238-0447

The Rail
This raucous bar just off Franklin Square is quite possibly the most interactive pub in the city. Townies gather here for happy hour and stay late into the night, sipping cold beers with Patrick the
bartender and littering the murky floor with peanut shells. 405 W. Congress St.; www.therailpub.com

SLEEP

The Gastonian Inn
Voted Savannah’s most romantic inn by the readers of Savannah Magazine, this antique-packed pair of Italianate mansions boast gourmet breakfasts and impeccable attention to detail.
220 E. Gaston St.; www.gastonian.com

The Mansion on Forsyth Park
Overlooking the verdant park that has become synonymous with Savannah, this Victorian brick mansion and its seamless addition are a decadent, bright blend of old and new. 700 Drayton St.;
www.mansiononforsythpark.com

Westin Savannah Harbor Golf Resort and Spa
This Hutchinson Island resort has the best view of the city, and it’s just a brief water-taxi ride away from the action. Play eighteen holes on the site of the PGA Legends of Golf tournament or relax in the renowned Greenbrier Spa. 1 Resort Dr.; www.westinsavannah.com