Get Toasted

John T. Edge, as most know, is an almost bottomless vessel of food knowledge, so when he collared me, painfully hungover, on a hot summer morning several years back to share a culinary secret, I didn't bat an eye.

He told me that deep in the Lower East side of Manhattan, beyond the hidden and trendy über cocktail bars of the post-midnight hipster crowds, is an even better secret. A secrets that happen to be open at more civilized hours and offer its finest for more palatable price.

From a décor standpoint, The Dumpling House (118 Eldridge Street) is not particularly inviting, but it serves one of the finest and affordable snacks on the island: the sesame pancake—a pizza-sized pancake covered in perfectly toasted sesame seed; cut into wedges; filleted; and filled with shredded beef, pork, or duck, carrot/cilantro relish, and a thick soy glaze. And practically given away for about $1.50.

  My pal Joe York digging the sesame pancake, too

I love you John T. for sharing this with me. It has saved my life on more than one occasion. It can save you too, people.