Jed Portman

Cocktail Hour: Magnolia Bitters

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMay 30, 2014

Forget Angostura. Or all right, at least make room on the bar for one more bottle, because you’re going to want to batch up some of John Yeager’s magnolia bitters. The recipe comes from GRAY’S on Main, in Franklin, Tennessee, where Yeager and his wife Lindsay created a cocktail menu that reads like the contents of a Gilded Age millionaire’s liquor cabinet. Rooted in brandy, a spirit that inspired some of the country’s earliest cocktailians, it’s a list of lush creations layered with foreign tonics, fortified wines, herbs, and fruit liqueurs

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Easy as (Blueberry Buttermilk) Pie

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMay 22, 2014

You’d be forgiven for overlooking the food scene in Charleston, West Virginia, the capital of the state, which has yet to draw the feverish press surrounding hotspots such as Atlanta, Nashville, and Charleston, South Carolina. Like many smaller cities across the country, however, Charleston has come an awfully long way in the past decade. One of the people most responsible for that culinary renaissance is native Keeley Steele, who operates the popular Bluegrass Kitchen as well as beach bar Tricky Fish and bakery Frütcake.

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Georgia Trout With Salsa Verde

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMay 7, 2014

Gone are the days when Latin American food meant chips, salsa, and cheese-sauced enchiladas in many parts of Dixie. Now, serious chefs across the country are looking south of the border for inspiration. And in Athens, Georgia, farm-to-table pioneer Hugh Acheson has teamed up with Whitney Otawka, a California native who ran the kitchen at shuttered local favorite Farm 255, to explore the flavors of the deep, deep South at Cinco y Diez.

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Longleaf Pine Margarita

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMay 5, 2014

When former playwright Alan Walter isn’t assembling cocktails behind the bar at Loa, inside New Orleans’s International House Hotel, he's out tracking down the Spanish moss, sassafras leaves, muscadine grapes, and other wild ingredients that season his creations.

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Eating Appalachia with Fred Sauceman

By Jed PortmanGood EatsApril 17, 2014

Have you ever tried an Arvil Burger, or sipped a cup of the Hotel Roanoke’s peanut soup? Probably not, but you’d better believe that Fred Sauceman has. The roaming journalist, filmmaker, and professor at East Tennessee State University has left nary a small town or holler untouched in his lifelong quest to catalog the foods of the Southern mountains.

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Southern-Style Shrimp Roll

By Jed PortmanGood EatsApril 4, 2014

Every few months, it seems, another Charleston, South Carolina, chef opens a buzzed-about new spot downtown. Jacques Larson isn’t all that eager to push his way in. A veteran of several downtown establishments, he now cooks on the fringes of town at the rustic Johns Island restaurant Wild Olive and at the brand-new Obstinate Daughter, wedged between the grand old beach houses on Sullivan’s Island. Just blocks from the Atlantic, the Obstinate Daughter takes some cues from the Italian menu at its sister restaurant, but even more from its surroundings. “First and foremost, it’s a Southern restaurant,” Larson says. “We’re borrowing from Italian cuisine, but the menu is rooted in local produce.”

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First Listen: Bobby Bare, Jr.

By Jed PortmanSouthern SoundsApril 3, 2014

Bobby Bare, Jr. earned his first Grammy nomination in 1974. He was eight years old, and he had just recorded a popular duet with his father, country music legend Bobby Bare, titled “Daddy What If.” Bare, Jr. has been in the music business ever since. He sold t-shirts at his father’s concerts as a teenager, and then handled lighting for a parade of Nashville acts while honing his writing skills under the tutelage of Shel Silverstein, who was a close family friend and a prolific songwriter in his own right.

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Southern Pantry: Muscadine Juice

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 25, 2014

Long before black tea and cane sugar came to the Americas, Southern natives were sipping muscadine juice. Its woodsy funk still makes regular old grape juice taste one-dimensional and boring. And now, you don’t need vines in your backyard to keep the refrigerator stocked

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St. Patrick's Day Staples

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 15, 2014

Get your green ready. It’s almost St. Patrick’s Day, and whether you’re heading to work or gearing up to spend the day drinking, you’ll need to be prepared. The folks at Atlanta’s H&F Bread Company, an extension of the popular Holeman & Finch restaurant, are now taking orders for Irish soda cakes, pastrami-and-gruyere pretzel ficelles, and hearty potato, white cheddar, and chive scones. If you can’t stop by the bakery, try whipping up assistant head baker Eddie Wright’s scones at home with this recipe.

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Eight Things We Learned at the Charleston Wine and Food Festival

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 10, 2014

1. If you’re in the D.C. area, keep an eye on Jeremiah Langhorne. On Saturday morning, the former chef de cuisine at Charleston restaurant McCrady’s joined Baltimore chef and restaurateur Spike Gjerde to cook a standing-room-only brunch in the leafy courtyard outside vintage cookbook shop the Heirloom Collection. The highlights included bourbon-brined and smoked oysters topped with crème fraiche, wrapped in buckwheat crepes, and garnished with spoonfuls of perch caviar; rye chilaquiles topped with crowder peas, diced rutabaga, and spicy espelette salsa; and sour-milk donuts slathered with sweet blood orange jam. And although the setting was low-key, the bites were among the best of the weekend, and Langhorne confirmed that he is still on track to open his Washington, D.C., restaurant by the end of the year.

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