Jed Portman

Make Your Own Livermush

By Jed PortmanGood EatsApril 8, 2015

At Garden & Gun, we love livermush. Okay, not all of us. When we cooked a batch at the office a while back, some of the editors were less than enthusiastic about the name. But those who were brave enough to sample the North Carolina treat realized that it’s actually a lot tastier than its unappetizing moniker implies. That’s why we included livermush in our April/May issue, on our list of fifty reasons to love the South now.

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Opening: Real Tex-Mex in New York City

By Jed PortmanGood EatsApril 6, 2015

Lisa Fain couldn’t find good Tex-Mex food in New York City. So the Lone Star State native had to retreat to her kitchen instead. She started a blog that chronicled her attempts to replicate the dishes of her childhood, called the Homesick Texan. Now, after two cookbooks and praise from media outlets all over the country, she is taking the next step: helping to open a restaurant in her adopted hometown that promises to give enchiladas, tamales, and chile con queso the respect they deserve. El Original will open its doors in Hell’s Kitchen on Friday, April 10. We talked with Fain about what to expect.

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Where to Drink Seventy-Year-Old Whiskey

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 31, 2015

Even thirty years ago, bourbon was better than it is today. Grains soaked and fermented in water that came from wells, not municipal water supplies. Ancient oaks supplied the wood for the air-dried barrels that held and mellowed corn spirits. Low demand kept most whiskeys small-batch, and distillers who spent two or three decades at their posts had time to refine and adjust their recipes. Until recently, only the most devoted collectors could sample the majority of those antique spirits before they vanished for good.

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Weekend Menu: Steven Satterfield's Spring Onion Pizza

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 20, 2015

Blame Paula Deen. Or heck, let's leave her out of this for once. Blame generations of well-meaning chefs and cooks who have defined Southern cooking with adjectives like battered, fried, buttered, and smothered, rather than the most important one of all: fresh. Steven Satterfield, of Miller Union in Atlanta, isn't the first chef to make the case that our diet is rooted in garden soil. But in his new cookbook, he presents a vegetable-centric cuisine that is as appealing in its restraint as a salt-and-peppered slice of tomato, particularly as we lift our heads from the larded stew pots of cold months past to nibble on new harvests of asparagus, peas, and strawberries. Root to Leaf is divided by season, and the spring chapter contains such uncomplicated creations as this spring onion pizza, made with a wholesome whole wheat dough.

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How to Make a Collard Sandwich

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 11, 2015

When Glenn and Dorsey Hunt piled collard greens between pucks of cornbread a decade ago, the fair food vendors from Robeson County, North Carolina, created a new regional classic.

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Five Things We Learned at the 2015 Charleston Wine + Food Festival

By Jed PortmanGood EatsMarch 9, 2015

1. Louisiana isn’t the only place with a culinary Holy Trinity. In Cajun kitchens, the term Holy Trinity refers to onion, bell pepper, and celery. According to chef Vivian Howard, of the Chef and the Farmer in Kinston, North Carolina, her corner of the Tarheel State has its own essential trio: sweet potatoes, turnip greens, and pork, all of which she served with local clams during her Friday night collaboration with Shawn Kelly of High Cotton.

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Gravy Podcast: The History of Derby Pie

By Jed PortmanSouthern SoundsFebruary 26, 2015

Ever tried Derby pie? To many Southerners the recipe for the gooey, bourbon-soaked dessert practically belongs to everyone. Alan Rupp would disagree. His grandparents Walter and Leaudra Kern created the recipe about sixty-five years ago, for the dessert menu at the Melrose Inn in Prospect, Kentucky. “If you wanted to get a hold of Derby Pie, you called Walter Kern’s name in the old phone directory,” he says.

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How to Make Chicken Mull

By Jed PortmanGood EatsFebruary 24, 2015

“I’ve been eating chicken mull from the time I could eat anything,” says Charlotte Griffin, the mayor of Bear Grass, North Carolina. In Martin County, people credit her grandfather with the simple porridge, thickened with crackers and seasoned with salt, pepper, and chile flakes.

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The South's Other Favorite Tea

By Jed PortmanGood EatsFebruary 17, 2015

Russian Tea is not from Russia. At least, not Russian Tea as we Southerners know it. The giftable dry mix that is the stuff of countless mid-century community cookbooks dates back to the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when American urbanites sipped black tea with lemon and sugar in imitation of upper-class Russians. Within decades, so-called Russian Tea, which was by then often doctored with clove and cinnamon, washed down chicken salad and mixed nuts at meetings of bridge clubs and church groups across the South. In the transformative years following World War II, the basic formula of hot tea with citrus became a showcase for the convenience foods of the Space Age: Tang, powdered lemonade, instant tea. And there, at last, is the Russian Tea we all know and love—layered with love in a Mason jar, and tastefully tied with grosgrain or gingham.

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