Good EatsJanuary 16, 2014
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If you’re a country ham lover, chances are you’re already familiar with Surry, Virginia, company S. Wallace Edwards and Sons. Back in the late 1990s, well before the start of the artisan food revolution, third-generation cure master Sam Edwards turned an old family business into one of the South’s most respected curing operations when he ditched commodity pork and began using meat from flavorful heirloom hogs instead. His Surryano hams—each dry-cured, hickory-smoked, and aged more than a year—have appeared in white-tablecloth restaurants all over the country in the past decade.