City Portrait

Eating and Drinking in Bermuda

From kippers to cocktails, our picks for the best spots on the Rock

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

The towering fish sandwich with ginger beer at Art Mels.

Art Mels Spicy Dicy
When Arthur (“Art”) Smith opened a roadside café twenty years ago, he didn’t bother putting up a sign; the grapevine reputation of his gargantuan fish sandwich was advertising enough. Signage eventually became a navigational necessity when lunchtime pilgrims from Hamilton office blocks caught on. But the sandwich—four inches high and smothered with cheese, fried onions, or coleslaw—is as good as ever 9 St. Monica’s Rd., Pembroke; 441-295-3965

The Dining Room
You can’t beat the views at this former tearoom overlooking the sweeping South Shore on one side, and the entire Great Sound on the other. The menu doesn’t disappoint either. Indian chef Jayram Acharya serves an inspired collection of Mediterranean, Asian fusion, and vegetarian dishes, plus a popular brunch on weekends with kippers, F.E.B. (full English breakfast), and the beloved local codfish and potatoes. 68 St. Anne’s Rd., Southampton;

The Dockyard Pastry Shop
Anglophiles love the clotted cream and scones for afternoon tea. West Enders—long deprived of sophisticated cuisine “up de country”—flock for French quiches, fresh-baked desserts, gourmet coffees, and Sunday afternoon Chablis on the patio of this former British naval officers’ cottage, just a few steps from the ferry dock. 12 Dockyard Terr., Sandys;

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

The dining room at Harry’s.

Deep-sea diver and island patriarch Harry Cox used to mix up his own special concoction of rum and ginger ale, and his lively legacy lives on at his namesake venue. The harborside restaurant, owned by the centuries-old island family that runs nearby gourmet grocery Miles, sports an elegant menu (Kobe steaks, garlic mussels, tempura lobster), along with an expansive wine selection and cocktail list that make it the hip locale for Friday happy hour.
96 Pitts Bay Rd., Pembroke;

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

Island Chic

Happy hour at Muse Skybar.

Muse’s Rooftop Skybar
Rise above it all at Muse restaurant’s rooftop bar overlooking Hamilton Harbour. Since opening in 2010, it’s become a top pick for private parties and after-work wind-downs. Cocktail mavens can sample house favorites like the Ritz Fizz (champagne, amaretto, blue curaçao, lime cordial) or the Petite Fleur (white rum, Cointreau, grapefruit). 17 Front St., Hamilton;

The Spot
Seventy years old and still going strong, this city veteran remains one of the last authentic Bermudian diners. It draws an intriguingly mixed crowd—from politicians to pensioners—with daily specials like Portuguese red bean soup and made-from-scratch pancakes. Sometimes you can even snare a handful of sweet local bananas from the checkout counter. 6 Burnaby St., Hamilton; 441-292-6293

Tribe Road Kitchen
Named for the narrow colonial-era lanes that transect Bermuda’s nine parishes, this new pocket-size eatery is run by chef Karsten Krivenko, better known to locals as the Barefoot Baker for her bohemian approach to comfort food. She does wonders with decadent creations like maple-bacon doughnuts and blueberry pound cake, along with breakfast and lunch fare like eggs Benny and lobster mac ’n’ cheese. 87 Reid St., Hamilton;