Arkansas’s Newton County is a place preserved: no stoplights, and scarce cell service. The county seat of Jasper’s population (547) remains roughly what it was 125 years ago. In recent years, however, the long-delayed specters of change have sniffed out Northern Arkansas’s once-isolated rural pockets, often in the form of travelers drawn to the area’s miles of mountain bike trails—and their need for a good bite and a welcoming spot to rest. But even as the area finds itself at a confluence, modernity twining around rural heritage, the physical hollers and spiritual anchors that have kept generations rooted here endure: Untouched wild spaces. Dark skies. Free-flowing waters. A place, despite everything, still very much the same.
See & Do
Just over fifty years ago, President Nixon, urged on by no small number of Arkansas conservationists and politicos, officially recognized the Buffalo River as the country’s first National River. Since then, countless millions have floated and fished its 135 gorgeous miles. Naturally, most Jasper adventures center on the river. Though newcomers don’t need to bring their own watercraft—the Buffalo Outdoor Center has been outfitting paddlers with canoes and kayaks since 1976—it’s important to remember: You will have to make your way back. “Our river does not go in a circle,” says longtime Newton County sheriff and sixth-generation resident Glenn Wheeler. Plan your return route with the Center.
Back on land, prime hiking spots await not far from the Buffalo’s banks. Hemmed-In Hollow Falls, the tallest between the Rockies and the Appalachians, is best accessed while floating to Kyles Landing. Eye-popping vistas abound: Before setting out, Google “Hawksbill Crag.” Same goes for rock climbing (“Sam’s Throne”) and wildlife watching (“Boxley Valley”). No matter your chosen activity, in such a rural place, there are better-than-decent odds that your phone will not be able to bail you out. When someone hands you a paper map, take it.
Eat & Drink
Whether you need to recoup your strength after a long day of exploring, or anticipate another day doing much the same, there’s one name you need to know: Jasper Pizza Co. At this relatively recent addition to Jasper’s Historic District, you’ll find all the fuel you require in the shape of homemade pies with scratch-made sauces and doughs. In addition to turning out a damn fine pizza—we recommend the hot-sauced Buffalo, naturally—the restaurant also donates generously to the local high school. Stick around town for blackberry cobbler from Low Gap Café, or a slice of pie from Sharon Kay’s.
Otherwise, some of the best fare is farther flung but very much worth the scenic drive: Head east on U.S. 65 and you’ll find a carnivore trifecta: brisket from Big Springs Trading Co.; smoked turkey, summer sausage, and bacon from Coursey’s Smoked Meats; and a cheeseburger-and-fries combo from Daisy Queen. Plus, a jaunt through “wet” Boone County will enable a beer run, if you happen to be thirsty.
Stay
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch spreads out over some 640 rolling acres. The former dude ranch is now an adventure lover’s getaway, with a new stock of pedal-assist mountain bikes and a perpetually expanding system of trails (courtesy of the Walmart-founding Walton family’s backing throughout the region). Activities also include 547-and-counting rock-climbing routes and the Iron Horse Zipline. (“Biggest zip in the state. Longest, fastest, highest,” our guide Jason said, moments before launching us 2,300 feet in less than a minute.) Throw in breakfast, lunch, and dinner buffets, a battery of cabins (in addition to campsites), and two stately llamas, and you’ve got a full-fledged all-inclusive experience. No matter where you bed down, however, take a moment to look up at the stars: Buffalo National Park is officially recognized as an International Dark Sky Park.
Discover more must-visit towns in G&G’s 20 Dreamy Summer Weekend Getaways here.
