Chefs Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner of the Pass & Provisions in Houston aren’t above passing blame for the Brussels sprout’s notoriously bad rap. “At some point between the discovery of fire and now, everyone was told to cook the s*** out of Brussels sprouts so they taste like poison,” Siegel-Gardner says. But a little creativity can combat those mini-cabbage mishaps. “We use the outer leaves for a cold salad while the hearts can be charred to bring out the sweeter side,” Gallivan says. Introduced to the South when eighteenth-century French settlers brought them to Louisiana, Brussels sprouts are available throughout February. Look for tightly closed, bright green bunches with a bit of shine to them—if they are still on the stalk, even better. The chefs’ favorite prep is to simply roast them in a 400-degree oven with garlic and fresh-grated Parmesan for 15 to 20 minutes (to release natural sugars without turning them to mush). Or shave them raw and toss with a vinaigrette and bacon. As Siegel-Gardner says, “Every ingredient has beauty, and it is the challenge of the chef to extract it.” Follow his lead and you’ll never again doubt the sprout.
What's in Season
What’s in Season: Brussels Sprouts
Who says Brussels sprouts have to be bitter?

illustration: John Burgoyne
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