See Bunny Mellon’s Jaw-Dropping Jewelry Collection

Leaves necklace, 1956. Turquoise, diamonds, 18-karat gold, and platinum. All pieces by designer Jean Schlumberger, French, 1907–1987.

The Tiffany & Co. designer Jean Schlumberger created fanciful pieces of jewelry for Bunny Mellon that were personally meaningful and complemented her botanical interests. While she was known as one of his greatest patrons, Schlumberger likewise supported her artistic talents as a horticulturist, inviting her to design the garden at his home. This necklace, which appears at a glance to be orderly and symmetrical in design, demonstrates Schlumberger’s skill at infusing his works with subtle variation. The leaves decorating the turquoise-mounted fringe on this flexible collar are actually attached at different points and oriented in various directions.

Flower Pot, 1960. Amethyst, emeralds, diamonds, black garnet ore, 18-, 20- and 22-karat gold, and terracotta.

On the advice of Schlumberger, Paul Mellon purchased an extremely rare 94-carat Kashmir sapphire in 1956 with Mrs. Mellon’s tastes in mind. Mrs. Mellon placed an order three years later for a “pot” to hold this exceptional stone. Ultimately, Schlumberger planted a sapphire-centered flower crafted from gold into an actual terracotta seedling pot from her Upperville, Virginia, greenhouse. In the spring of 1960, Schlumberger showed his Flower Pot to Mrs. Mellon, simply remarking, “She was delighted with it.”

Mr. and Mrs. Paul Mellon photographed in the Mellon Galleries at Virginia Museum of Fine Arts.

Pisces brooch, ca. 1965. Diamonds, emeralds, paillonné enamel, 18-karat gold, and platinum.

This pair of fish, covered in diamonds and enlivened with lustrous red enamel fins, was Mrs. Mellon’s favorite brooch, according to a handwritten note she included with her gift to the museum.

Cucumber box, 1962–63. Peridots and 18-karat gold.

Cigarette cases, pill boxes, and vanity cases by Jean Schlumberger enjoyed a particular vogue in the 1960s. His elaborate and often fanciful designs recall the eighteenth- and nineteenth-century fashion for snuffboxes. Mrs. Mellon would place orders of her favorite designs with Schlumberger directly. She frequently commissioned boxes and cigarette cases as gifts, and at her request, an item would include a plaque engraved with the recipient’s name.

Claw ring, late twentieth century. Tortoiseshell and 18-karat gold.

Platinum Petals brooch, c. 1952. White and yellow diamonds, 18-karat gold, and platinum.

Acorns crossover ring, early 1960s. Cultured pearls and 18-karat gold.

Late 1950s necklace. Cultured pearls, 18-karat two-color gold, ruby, and diamonds.

Hummingbird brooch, 1962–63. Diamonds, pink diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, ruby, black enamel, 18-karat gold, and platinum.

Flowers and Leaves necklace, ca. 1958. Diamonds, 18-karat gold, and platinum.

Cornflower brooch, c. 1957. Sapphires, diamonds, 18-karat gold, and platinum.

Shells bracelet, 1958. Platinum, 18-karat gold, diamond, sapphire, and emerald.

Torsades bracelets, c. 1958. Diamonds, 18-karat gold, seed pearls, gold beads, and coral beads.

Assorted rings by Jean Schlumberger, French, 1907–1987 in Mellon’s collection.

Assorted works by Jean Schlumberger, French, 1907–1987, featured in Jean Schlumberger: The Rachel Lambert Mellon Collection from the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts. Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon. Photos courtesy of the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts.