Steven Goff loves lox on a bagel with cream cheese. But like many other chefs, he is also an advocate for locally farmed and foraged ingredients, and salmon don’t swim anywhere near Asheville, North Carolina, where Goff has lived and worked for more than a decade, most recently at the acclaimed King James Public House. “I don’t like to use ingredients from too far away, and salmon are incredibly far away,” he says. “What we do have here is great trout.” Goff cures fillets in a mixture of North Carolina sweet potato vodka, dill, citrus, and spices, and serves the resulting lox over bagels and salads. Made with freshly caught fish, it’s delicious enough to make a person forget salmon lox altogether.