A native of Sicily, chef Vincenzo Betulia serves authentic Italian fare at his Osteria Tulia in Naples, Florida. For his Feast of the Seven Fishes, he shares one of his tried-and-true preparations: Make a parchment-paper packet, fill it with herbs, vegetables, and a prized Southern catch, and let it quickly steam in a hot oven. “The fish will take on the wonderful southern Italian flavors of capers, olives, and thyme,” Betulia says, “and show a gentle glimpse of acidity from white wine and lemon.”