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A lunaresque scene on Island 78.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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River outfitter and expert paddler John Ruskey.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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One of Ruskey’s handmade canoes.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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Warming up by the fire.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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The author enjoys an evening sip.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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Stew-bound vegetables at dinnertime.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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The canoes awaiting adventure.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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A crew of paddlers prepare to take out.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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Ruskey’s signature move.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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A makeshift dryer for water boots.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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Fellow canoeists on break.

Photo: Ben Gately Williams

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Part of the feast: mushrooms and cabbage.

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Water boiling on the fire.

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An evening fire for warmth.

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Ruskey illuminates his dinner.

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The campground.

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Adventureers take on the Lower Mississippi.

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A canoe ready for launch.

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Ruskey of Ruskey’s Quapaw Canoe Company sits aboard one of his creations.

Ben Gately Williams