It’s a universal irony: Sleepy little towns like Cleveland, Mississippi, boast very few places where visitors can actually sleep. Resolving that conundrum provided the impetus behind Cotton House, a five-story, ninety-five-room boutique hotel that opened at the end of July in downtown Cleveland. The decor is decidedly Delta: Artwork depicts the rich landscape and even richer personalities, the rooftop has the laid-back feel of a juke joint, and the lobby beckons with easy chairs.
The real star, though, is the food overseen by James Beard Award semifinalist chef Cole Ellis. His darling Delta Meat Market, which revolutionized the Cleveland dining scene as well as the nightlife with its Friday happy hours, moved from its location across the street into the Cotton House’s lobby. “One thing folks made clear is that they want the new place to have the feel of the old Meat Market, and it does,” Ellis says. “Although for the first time, we are open for breakfast and dinner, too.” Bar Fontaine, the rooftop hangout, features homemade pastas and an expansive wine list. “But we rest our hats on a hell of a great bourbon bar,” Ellis says. If you aren’t feeling so sleepy after one nightcap, order another. In true Delta fashion, Ellis’s policy is, generally, “stay until we kick you out.” (Bonus: Get a cocktail recipe from Bar Fontaine below.)