In a city known for its late nights and lost weekends, it’s only appropriate that New Orleans should have a group of cocktails tailored for the inevitable rough mornings-after. The historic Ramos Gin Fizz is a great example of this genre: a creamy, approachable brunchtime cocktail with enough gin to take the edge off and the velvety mouthfeel of God’s own Dreamsicle. At Arnaud’s French 75, bartender and scholar Chris Hannah gives his traditional version its ethereal lightness with a few solid minutes of hard shaking. It’s the only way to get it right.