“I often substitute sorghum syrup for other sweeteners in our recipes, but this is not one of those times; only dark molasses will do here,” says Brian Noyes, founder of Red Truck Bakery in Marshall, Virginia, and author of the new Red Truck Bakery Cookbook. “The tar-thick syrup has a pleasant bite that is well complemented by a covey of cold-weather spices: clove, ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon. When we start baking off batches of these cookies in early October, Main Street fills up with the aroma (I’ve smelled them in the post office down the block), so customers know they’re in the oven before they even walk through the front door. I think of them as a first taste of the holidays, although hooked customers continue to ask for them year-round.”