When the much-anticipated Lowland opened in Charleston, South Carolina, last year, a seemingly under-the-radar dish—the celery salad—quickly became a diner favorite. Executive chef Jason Stanhope, however, wasn’t surprised at all. “Celery has a natural salinity and a super crunchy texture,” he says. “If you think about it, most of our favorite unhealthy snacks are salty and crunchy. There is something in all of us that craves these qualities.”
In much of the South, celery peaks throughout the fall—perfect timing for working it into holiday menus and game-day snacks. Fine-dicing stalks for a mirepoix is an obvious seasonal prep move (hello, Thanksgiving dressing!), and no one is going to argue with a stack of celery next to a pile of wings. To really highlight the ubiquitous veg, you can braise it with a bit of stock and seasoning for an easy side dish, or simmer and blend it into celery soup for a surprising starter. As for the salad (see recipe), which Stanhope says was inspired by a dish he fell in love with at the Four Horsemen restaurant in Brooklyn, he gives celery a quick blanch, then tosses it with toasted walnuts, sweet dates, and refreshing mint, and finishes with a sherry vinaigrette and aged cheddar. “It is truly greater than the sum of its parts,” he says.
To nail any rendition—the Lowland salad included—make sure you’re working with fresh stalks. The ideal bunch of celery is shiny pale green and tightly packed, with unbruised stalks and perky leaves. “I love workhorse vegetables,” Stanhope says. “It’s great for our culinary team to see how happy something like celery can make our guests. I tell our younger cooks that there is a great lesson in learning to make celery delicious before they start using caviar and truffles.”
