About ten miles north of downtown Charleston, South Carolina, Cane Pazzo blends old-world charm and Lowcountry warmth in the form of exposed brick archways, repurposed furnishings, and the steady glow of a wood-fired oven anchoring the open kitchen. But on the menu, it’s a humble squash dish that most clearly reflects the vision of chef and owner Mark Bolchoz.
“This Italian-inspired version of my mom’s recipe incorporates herbs and great provolone,” Bolchoz says of the creamy sformato. “But the Ritz cracker crust is an absolute must.”
A native Charlestonian, Bolchoz grew up on squash casseroles and decadent holiday cooking, later training in Italy and New York before returning home to take his place in the city’s evolving food scene. At Cane Pazzo, which opened earlier this month, he draws on those experiences in dishes like crispy mozzarella and heirloom tomato toast and handmade pastas like blue crab raviolo and sausage ragù lumache, all rooted in seasonal ingredients and Southern inspiration.
The sformato, baked to order and served bubbling in small cast-iron skillets, makes the most of summer squash at its peak. “It tastes like home,” Bolchoz says, “just with a little Italian soul.”
