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Bill Smith with a few heads of savoy cabbage.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Tamales made with fresh corn, chiles, and country ham drippings.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Smith on the job in the Crook’s Corner kitchen.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Coworker Sebastian Lopez-Leon.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Well-thumbed cookbooks line a shelf.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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The Crook’s Corner sign features a pig on a pole.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Crook’s Corner’s iconic shrimp and grits.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Smith’s Orange Red-Hot sorbet.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Smith in the Crook’s courtyard.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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Smith’s suptuous banana pudding.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak

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A hunk of butter and a handwritten recipe.

Photo: Andrew Kornylak