“The first time I saw live lobsters or soft-shell crabs was at Café Annie, the first and only restaurant I worked for in Houston,” writes the Texas chef Anita Jaisinghani in her new cookbook, Masala: Recipes from India, the Land of Spices. “At first, I was horrified seeing them squirm and move about in the boxes. Watching the fish guy spear the live critters and then drop them in hot water made my heart pound. Unfortunately, this did not prevent me from tasting the crab hours later. I do recognize that whether it’s a giant king crab leg or pristine jumbo lump crabmeat, most of us omnivores love crab. Whether it’s stuffed into a samosa, tossed in a crisp cold salad, or fried into a cake, enjoying crab is a no-brainer. This warm bubbly crab dip combines the best of good South Indian cooking and can become a lovely party appetizer. Serve it with warm bread, small dosas, naans, rotis, or parathas.”