Pool Room Slaw straddles a lot of lines: It’s a bit fresh coleslaw, a bit pickled chowchow, a bit north Alabama, a bit middle Tennessee. One line pool room slaw doesn’t cross: it’s not a cool, creamy, mayo-swaddled salad designed to cut the spice from other foods. Though it’s served cold, this slaw gets heat-and plenty of it- from two sources: yellow mustard’s sharpness and as much red pepper as you dare. The slaw’s ambiguity plays out well in the kitchen too. Finely grate the vegetables, and you have an almost relishlike dish that can do double duty as a side or a topper for burgers, barbecue, or hot dogs, the traditional accompaniment in pool halls across the rural central South. Shred instead, and you’re in more traditional and familiar coleslaw-as-salad territory.