“There are certain things I look forward to every year,” David Bancroft says. “College football, snapper season, hunting season, chanterelle mushrooms, peaches, and tomatoes. I mean, I plan my vacations around those things.” At first glance, the tomato grilled cheese sandwich on the chef’s menu at Acre, in Auburn, Alabama, might not seem the equal of the restaurant’s other dishes, which are composed from house-cured meats and produce from the impressive kitchen garden right outside. But this isn’t your mom’s grilled cheese—it’s almost entirely scratch-made, with bread Bancroft bakes on-site, tomatoes grown nearby, and a drunken marmalade that can also add sweet-and-salty crunch to everything from burgers to hot dogs to pimento cheese. The only concession to nostalgia is the perfectly melty processed cheese. “There is a time and place when it really just has to be American cheese,” he says.