Years ago, in New Bern, North Carolina, Bill Smith’s great-grandmother offered him a deal. Anytime he’d pick a quart of blackberries, she’d bake a pie. “She was a fabulous cook,” he says. So each year, when the berries were ripe, he walked along the railroad tracks gathering fruit. Today, Smith’s blackberries come from a prolific patch across the street from the legendary Crook’s Corner. During the summer, they play starring roles in desserts such as this blackberry and peach cobbler, topped with a pecan-studded, shortbreadlike crust that has been on the restaurant’s menu for decades. “That crust recipe was here when I got here twenty-three years ago,” Smith says. “It’s somebody’s grandma’s, probably, and it tastes like a delicious cookie.” Easier than pie, this timeless cobbler feeds a small crowd of hungry berry pickers.