Timothy Pakron vividly remembers his teacher demonstrating how to fry squash one day in preschool, which became his first food memory and the inspiration behind this recipe. As he writes in his new cookbook, Garden Variety, the dish is a “true delight, perfect for when you pick up a basket of yellow squash from a little old man on the side of the road or if you have an abundance from the garden.” He suggests keeping it to a small batch to prevent excess flour and oil from burning and becoming smoky.

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Recipe excerpted from Garden Variety by Timothy Pakron, courtesy of Avery, an imprint of Penguin Random House. To get more Southern vegan cooking inspiration, read our Q&A with Pakron, and check out his recipe for curried cauliflower.