Ten years ago, John Lewis headed east with a goal to bring his legendary Texas barbecue to a city that needed it. The El Paso native had some specifications in mind: He wanted to maintain his hardwood smoking technique with local trees, draw a consistent crowd, and introduce something new to an area he was confident would appreciate it. “Charleston checked all my boxes,” Lewis says. Thus Lewis Barbecue was born midway up the peninsula in the East Central neighborhood. It didn’t take long for locals and tourists to deem the establishment’s brisket, sausage, turkey breast, pulled pork, and ribs among the best in the Lowcountry.
Between expanding his delectable hangout to the Southern foodie powerhouses Greenville and Atlanta and operating the vibrant Mexican-style Rancho Lewis in Charleston, Lewis stays busy. G&G caught up with the pitmaster to download his wisdom after ten successful years in business.
(Related: See our interns build their ideal barbecue trays at Lewis Barbecue.)
After ten years of Lewis Barbecue, what do you think keeps people coming back?
Customers always find it just as good as the first time because our team prioritizes consistency. You’re never going to catch Lewis Barbecue on a bad day. We also offer different weekly specials, so that’s a big draw too. You can come here every day for a week and never eat the same thing twice.
What did Charlestonians have to adjust to regarding Texas-style barbecue?
Charleston’s food scene usually leans more formal. Lewis offers something different; there are no waiters, and we’re slicing the meat right in front of you. This confuses new customers, but we guide you through the experience. It’s just like ordering at your grocery’s deli counter. Everything goes on a scale.
There’s a lot of history behind Central Texas barbecue. It all started in butcher shops…people came to buy the smoked meat, and they’d eat it off of “butcher paper” outside on the curb because they didn’t have plates at the markets. While we lessen the mess by way of our trays, we do keep the butcher paper tradition alive by lining the trays and giving customers extra sheets. We like to call it Texas fine china.
What was it about Charleston that made you want to open a restaurant here?
The first time I visited Charleston, I brought Texas beef to a whole-hog barbecue event. People seemed to really enjoy it. After the event I did a culinary tour around town. It was intriguing to me because I saw that Charleston wasn’t offering what I had. In that sense, I felt like I could fit into the city’s food scene by bringing a familiar favorite but also something entirely different. The friendly and welcoming Charlestonian personalities were a good sign too.
If you could only smoke with one wood for the rest of your life, what would it be?
I’m going to say something that hasn’t been created yet. I’d love to see an oak tree hybrid: 90 percent oak, 10 percent mesquite. Lemon-lime trees exist, so hopefully this can be a possibility for the future.
When people make barbecue or brisket at home, where do they go wrong?
It starts at the grocery store. People often buy brisket that doesn’t have enough fat marbling. You really have to take some time sorting through all the meat. There’s a big myth that a floppy frozen piece will give you the nicest results. That’s completely untrue. You want meat that’s stiff in the grocery and floppy by the end of the smoking process.
People also forget to be patient. Smoking meat takes a low temperature, a long time, and lots of patience. Don’t cook too fast and don’t cook too hot.
What’s the best tip you have for passing the long smoking hours?
Don’t drink too many beers. Let your guests do that.
Any particular tool, grill, or product you’d recommend for those cooking at home?
Everyone should have a digital instant-read thermometer, especially if it’s your first time smoking meat. My favorite grill in the world is the original PK grill. It’s made of cast aluminum and holds heat well. Since it’s not steel, you can leave it in the backyard in the rain. It holds up so well you’ll give it to your grandchildren.
What’s your favorite seasoning and sauce combo on brisket?
Our All Purpose Rub is a classic. We use it on everything. It’s made of kosher salt, coarse black pepper, and some secrets I can’t disclose. After eighteen hours of smoking your meat, you won’t be able to taste the pepper, but it builds on the texture, trapping the smoke too. My favorite sauce is our Secret Sauce. It’s a newer pick as we launched it just last year. You can order both the rub and sauce online and re-create Lewis at home.
Is there a customer reaction at Lewis that you’ll never forget?
When Texans visit, they’re always skeptical about Texas-style barbecue served outside of their home state. But when they finish, they complain that they now have to come all the way to South Carolina to get the best Texas barbecue.
It’s the last day on earth. What are you having for your last meal from the Lewis menu?
I gotta go with something from my personal secret menu. It’s called the Famous Bowl. I go down the line and slice off little pieces of everything we offer, fixins included, and put it all in a bowl. I have it once a week.
Frances O’Shea, a 2026 intern at Garden & Gun, grew up in Charleston and graduated from Furman University, where she studied English, French, and film.
