“Thick brown molasses is central to Southern soul food, where it was once a prized sweetener saved for special occasions,” writes Tanya Holland in her new cookbook, Tanya Holland’s California Soul: Recipes from a Culinary Journey West, which explores her family’s migration from the South and celebrates the multigenerational food traditions the California chef has maintained and modified. “But its sweetness is tinged with sadness too, as it is a by-product of the sugar production that drove the transatlantic slave trade. Molasses adds a distinct, earthy sweetness to this buttercream, which shines with ginger.”