Last month, while most cities were boxing up their holiday decorations, New Orleans slipped seamlessly into its festive attire. During Carnival season, there’s hardly a terrace or street corner without a fleur-de-lis, strands of shining beads, or garlands in purple, green, and gold. At Birdy’s Behind the Bower, even the cinnamon rolls receive a carnival coating—a sweet nod to a beloved Mardi Gras tradition.
“It’s New Orleans—you’ve got a king cake on your counter for thirty days straight,” says Marcus Woodham, executive chef of the breakfast, brunch, and lunch spot in the Lower Garden District. “Someone’s always dropping off a king cake or bringing a king cake. They’re just everywhere.”
Filled with cinnamon sugar, coated in a tangy cream cheese icing, and sprinkled with a colorful sugar trifecta, the Birdy’s rolls make their way to tables to be sliced and shared, often becoming the star of glamorous brunch photographs along the way. Starting this week, they’re available daily through Lundi Gras (the Monday before Fat Tuesday).
If you can’t get to New Orleans this year, you can make your own at home. The secret to the signature chewy texture is the dough base. “In the beginning with the milk and the flour, you’re making a roux to some extent,” Woodham explains. “You just want to make sure that’s nice and thick and smooth”—a technique he recently put to the test in his own kitchen when making a batch with his daughter.
Asked how the rolls are best enjoyed, Woodham doesn’t hesitate. “With coffee is amazing. That’s the way to go.”







