“Boil your water with a good amount of salt,” says the chef Amanda Russ. “It should taste almost like the sea.” Russ cooks classic Italian dishes at her restaurant Pomodori on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, and for the holidays, she nods to tradition with a comfort-food combination of seared scallops over pasta punched up with vodka sauce. “Don’t break out the top-shelf Chopin for this dish,” Russ says. Cheap vodka will do nicely.

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