Fried shrimp and oyster po’boys are fine, but to New Orleans–raised chef Kelly English, the real thing will always be beef. “And it’s not sliced roast beef,” says the man behind Memphis’s celebrated Restaurant Iris. “It’s well-sourced, slowly cooked meat that’s so tender it falls apart.”
So in November, English opened Second Line to pay homage to honest New Orleans cooking and the perfect po’boy. The Second Line version is built around braised grass-fed short ribs from Georgia’s White Oak Pastures, dressed traditionally with Duke’s mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, and pickles. No arugula or weird pickles or—heaven forbid—tomato jam. “We need to keep po’boys the way God intended them to be,” English says. “Iceberg belongs on it. Just leave that alone. The same with pickles. Go to the store and find the cheapest dill pickle slices you can.”