Okra hasn’t always been at the top of Nathaniel Cayer-Myette’s ingredient list. “My relationship with okra really started when I was in culinary school,” says the Montreal native, who is now executive chef of Sorry Charlie’s oyster bar in Savannah. “I had just started dating my future wife, Margaret, who’s from the South, and she took me to a Southern-style dinner where they served steamed okra with lemon and butter.” He was drawn to the pod’s earthy flavor and knew he’d want to incorporate it into his own future menus, but he wasn’t as keen on the slippery texture. While he was workshopping ideas for Sorry Charlie’s, a jar of salsa verde provided just the inspiration he needed.
“I started thinking about those bright, herbaceous flavors and how well okra could work in that style of preparation,” he says. Once he began experimenting with it, a hot sauce just made sense (see recipe). The okra’s mild, approachable flavor works well to balance the heat of the peppers, and its natural thickening prowess gives the sauce an ideal texture and consistency. “Combined with herbs, citrus, and heat, it creates something that feels fresh, balanced, and very Southern,” he says. Shake a few drops onto oysters, or kick up your favorite fish or grilled chicken dish.
Fresh okra is widely available at farmers’ markets throughout the summer and into early fall. For less fibrous pods, stick to okra no longer than four inches. The pods should be bright green with no soft spots. Store in the fridge and use within two to three days. And if, like Cayer-Myette, you prefer a snappier texture, experiment with different preparations. “Pickling or frying okra is a great gateway for people,” he says. “Okra is one of those ingredients that really represent Southern cooking to me because it’s versatile, humble, and incredibly adaptable. It’s deeply rooted in Southern food culture, but there’s still a lot of room to reinterpret it in modern ways.”