When I was planning my second restaurant, Botiwalla, I was eager to lean completely into my passion for marinated and grilled meats. This was going to be my no-compromise, no-holds-barred homage to kebabs, tikkas, tandoor—all kinds of delectable meat morsels sizzling over an open flame. In this vision, the only role for a vegetable was as a garnish.

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I was quickly shoulder- checked by the force of nature that is my wife and business partner, Molly, whose impeccable intuition (thankfully) balances out my hyperfocus. She unequivocally stated that if I didn’t have some type of salad on the menu, I’d be alienating a lot of people— primarily white women—who would see no reason to come to my temple of meat.

I knew she was right, but I wasn’t happy about it. So in a desperate attempt to maintain some shred of my vision’s integrity, I persuaded Molly that cabbage was a salad green and, to prove it, came up with this recipe. From a practical home cook’s standpoint, it’s genius, since a head of cabbage lasts much longer than a head of lettuce. I hate having to go to the grocery store when I have a whim to cook some thing, so a salad made from cabbage, carrots, and green onions—all things that keep well in the fridge—is a great back-pocket option.

This salad has since become one of our all-time bestsellers at both Botiwalla and Chai Pani— among white girls and desis alike. It’s best made and served on the same day, though it can be kept (albeit in a decreasingly crunchy state) overnight in the refrigerator. —Meherwan Irani, from No. 1 Best Indian Cookbook in the World

Read our interview with Irani about his new cookbook, and get the recipes for his pork chop masala and a comforting dal makhani.