Traditionally, Appalachian cooks prepare kil’t greens in the springtime, from tender garden lettuces and the nascent leaves of wild plants. When those delicate greens meet a boiling-hot dressing of bacon, onion, and vinegar, they soften and wither immediately. In other words, they’re kil’t. At her restaurants, Ouita Michel serves a versatile version of the Appalachian salad year-round. For best results, she says, use a variety of fresh greens. “I try to get everything in the mix,” Michel says. “If you do, say, young kale and mustard greens together, you get a blend of sweet and spicy. Then you get the skillet hot, add the bacon jam, add the greens, and toss, toss, toss until they just start to break down.”