In many Southern households, tomato aspic has gone the way of tuna casserole and ambrosia—curiosities at the back of the recipe box. It deserves better, says Elliott Moss, who believes gelatin and tomato still make an excellent pairing. The chef at Asheville’s Buxton Hall Barbeque has a collection of midcentury cookbooks and a fondness for the fruit-studded molds of cocktail parties past. “A lot of people are weirded out by aspics, but they’re just salads, and they’re pretty visually impressive,” he says. The base of Moss’s version is a quartet of fresh juices—tomato, watermelon, cucumber, and red pepper—that could easily double as a summertime cocktail mixer. He likes to serve the aspic with crackers, crudités, and a simple stir-together sauce of avocado and mayonnaise. The result is a cool, refreshing party dish that’s sure to win over the aspic averse.