Huntsville is a straight hour-and-a-half shot from my home in Birmingham, yet I had only made the trip there once to visit the U.S. Space & Rocket Center. People from around the world travel to Huntsville to do the same; after all, the USSRC is the largest spaceflight museum in the country, and the city has played a pivotal role in America’s space race since the 1950s, when it became a hub for NASA rocket production, including the ones that launched the first U.S. satellite and, later, astronauts to the moon.
While any trip to Huntsville should include a stop at the USSRC, don’t make the same mistake I once did and head home immediately after. The city has much more than moon rocks and flight simulators to offer, including an unexpectedly offbeat side that counters the buttoned-up reputation of its tech and aerospace industries. As I discovered on a recent visit, you can tour a massive collection of art studios, drink beer and play ping-pong in a former middle school, dine at Michelin-approved restaurants, and squeeze in a walk in the park—all in the same day.
See and Do
The Lowe Mill Arts & Entertainment center is a historic textile mill turned home for Huntsville’s creative community. With more than 150 studios for working artists and seven galleries, the sprawling three-story building—the largest privately owned arts facility in the United States—is open to the public and free to visit: Peek in on a jam session at the Cigar Box Guitar Store, admire intricate nature-inspired prints at Stephanie Flier’s Delta Dogwood Studio, and watch fiber artists at work (or make your own tufted textile) at the quirky shop Cut A Rug. Also on site: an arcade with vintage games, a record store, a “micro meadery” with a tasting bar, and more places to eat and drink.
Another reimagined industrial space, Stovehouse is a family-friendly hangout where you can hear live music, play lawn games, browse independent boutiques, and choose from several food options, including pizza and Italian favorites at Osteria LuCa and Korean-style fried chicken at Seoul Good. Over at Campus 805, a repurposed former middle school, play a round of ping-pong or virtual golf, or sample craft beer at Yellowhammer Brewing or Pints & Pixels; the latter also houses a retro arcade and plays movies and music videos from the 1980s.
Big Spring International Park is Huntsville’s go-to spot for festivals, concerts, and enjoying the outdoors right in the middle of downtown. Named for the natural spring that once served as the city’s water source and for the gifts from other countries spread around the park (like cherry trees from Japan and a sundial from Germany), it’s a peaceful place for a picnic or a stroll. By the end of the year, a 2.4-acre expansion will add public art, terraced walkways, a playground, and more.
Shop
While you’re downtown, don’t miss Harrison Brothers Hardware, a general store filled with local finds that has occupied the same building since 1897, complete with the original counters, wood floors, fixtures, and 1907 cash register, which is still used to ring up sales. You’ll find bins of marbles and candy, paintings by area artists, housewares, and the friendliest staff in town.
Eat
Located in Huntsville’s up-and-coming Lincoln Mill neighborhood, Salt Smokehouse recently earned a recommendation from the Michelin Guide for its globally inspired take on barbecue, like banh mi stuffed with tender slices of brisket, herbs, and pickled vegetables and finished with smoked cayenne white sauce. You can order brioche French toast, biscuits and gravy, and other brunch favorites seven days a week at Standard Social Market, a lively all-day spot with a small market stocked with provisions like house-made pickles and hot sauce. For something a bit more upscale, Purveyor, which also received a Michelin nod, serves creative cocktails (heavy on the bourbon) and a menu with a little bit of everything, from Alaskan crab spring rolls to short rib Wellington.
Stay
Downtown lodging options in Huntsville used to be limited, but growing demand helped bring the new Trilogy Hotel, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, to the area. Located across from the Von Braun Center and alongside Big Spring Park, the property has a sleek, midcentury-modern aesthetic, a seasonally inspired restaurant called Harvest Moon, and Vesper Sky Lounge, a top-floor bar with excellent views of the entire city—rockets and all.
