Bermudians have a saying: “We don’t give directions—we show you the way.” While this adage applies to literal navigation, it also reflects the islanders’ tendency to gently guide visitors to the best Bermuda has to offer. By following their advice, you’ll discover some remarkably delicious destinations, which include but are not limited to luxury hotels and resorts.
Discovered by the Spanish in 1505 and settled by the British in 1609 after the Virginia-bound Sea Venture wrecked ashore, Bermuda is the oldest continuously inhabited English-speaking settlement in the Western Hemisphere. The twenty-one-square-mile isle boasts a food scene reflective of its global history. Five-star service and the finest ingredients, imported via cargo ships and planes, dazzle visitors at places like the Intrepid at the Hamilton Princess Hotel. Named for Sir William Stephenson, code name Intrepid, the cryptanalyst who inspired Ian Fleming’s James Bond, the restaurant offers a refined dining experience featuring whole Canadian lobster, dry-aged Niman Ranch prime porterhouse, and Petrossian Osetra caviar. Cocktails, of course, can be ordered shaken or stirred.
Honed over decades of catering to the international jet set, this on-demand decadence is a hallmark of the island’s hospitality. The St. Regis Hotel, for instance, hosts a daily champagne sabering on its vast terrace, situated in the shadow of Fort St. Catherine, the island’s largest fortification, built in 1614. Opulent meals with historic backdrops are abundant here. For instance, at Achilles next door, floor-to-ceiling windows overlook panoramic sunsets from the northernmost tip of the island.
However, it’s the humble, hidden eateries known only to locals that should inspire any food-focused traveler. If you’re looking for mussel pie, for instance—a dish of mollusks baked in a hearty pastry shell, with hints of nutmeg, cinnamon, and Bermuda’s unique blend of British, African, Caribbean, Portuguese, and Native American influences—head to Baxter’s Pies, a tiny storefront with no street sign along the Railway Trail near Somerset cricket stadium. It’s the perfect stop during the lead-up to the eagerly anticipated Cup Match, a two-day island-wide cricket holiday each summer that also celebrates Emancipation.
Of course, lifelong Bermudians will tell you that a classic fish sandwich is the traditional Cup Match meal—not that you have to wait for the event to enjoy one. Stop at the canary-yellow Mamma Mia’s in Hamilton Parish for a towering masterpiece of local fried fish, coleslaw, hot sauce, and onions on raisin bread. The surprisingly sweet and savory combination will have you rethinking conventional sandwich pairings. It might also open your eyes to another signature Bermudian culinary twist: fish chowder with a rum floater. This national dish is a satisfying mix of seasonal vegetables, chunks of white fish, and the pièce de résistance—a splash of dark rum, preferably Goslings. Subtle in its simplicity but startling in its deliciousness, it’s another gem from the island’s four-hundred-year-old foodways and will have you planning your next visit even before your plane departs for home.
Sample more of Bermuda’s dining scene at GoToBermuda.com
