Food & Drink

The Forgotten Harvest

At Lavington Plantation in South Carolina, cane syrup is making a comeback
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A truckload of pressed cane at Lavington Plantation.

A truckload of pressed cane at Lavington Plantation.

Steam rises from a stream of boiling cane syrup.

Steam rises from a steam of boiling cane syrup.

David Maybank samples the goods.

David Maybank samples the goods.

The group looks on while the fire gets stoked.

The group looks on while the fire gets stoked.

Moss-draped trees line the road to Lavington.

Moss-draped trees line the road to Lavington.

Ben Ferguson unearths a load of cane that he had buried to keep it from spoiling.

Ben Ferguson unearths a load of cane that he had buried to keep it from spoiling.

Caramelized sugar on the edge of the kettle.

Caramelized sugar on the edge of the kettle.

Cane juice cools as it runs from a ladling bucket back into the kettle.

Cane juice cools as it runs from a ladling bucket back into the kettle.

Maybank works the press, crushing and squeezing juice from fresh cane.

Maybank works the press, crushing and squeezing juice from fresh cane.

Syrup drips off a soaked cornbread muffin.

Syrup drips off a soaked cornbread muffin.

Seed cane sprouts at Lavington.

Seed cane sprouts at Lavington.

Jimmy Hagood tends to the fire.

Jimmy Hagood tends to the fire.

When the hydrometer reaches thirty-two, the cane syrup is done cooking.

When the hydrometer reaches thirty-two, the cane syrup is done cooking.

Stewart Walker tests the finished product.

Stewart Walker tests the finished product.

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

Hagood pours a jarful of syrup.

Hagood pours a jarful of syrup.

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

Swapping stories at Lavington after the cook.

Swapping stories at Lavington after the cook.

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards

The author's syrup-slathered feast, with shrimp, elk, game birds, and a Pappy Van Winkled-fueled cocktail.

A syrup-slathered feast, with shrimp, elk, game birds, and a Pappy Van Winkle-fueled cocktail.

Photo: Peter Frank Edwards