Recipe

Brown Butter Sandwich Cookies with Chai Spice Buttercream

Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop puts a seasonal spin on a sweet family recipe

A tray of sandwich cookies dusted with sugar

Photo: courtesy of welton's tiny bakeshop


G&G’s 12 Days of Cookies

When Christmas morning rolls around, the warm smell of sugar cookies swirls through the kitchen of Hannah and Zach Welton. For Zach, the scent is a thread to his childhood, when he would sit with his mother and swipe icing onto the cookies she baked for his mid-December birthday. “When we first started dating, Zach would make his mom’s cookies,” Hannah says. “I made the icing, and we made it a family tradition. We do it every morning on Christmas day.”

When the couple was researching and developing their holiday menu at Welton’s Tiny Bakeshop in Charleston, South Carolina, they reached back to that recipe. “Zach’s mom’s sugar cookie is so pure, and it’s a beautiful basic. We put the classic Welton’s twist on it, browning the butter and adding Heilala vanilla extract for more dimension,” Hannah explains. The resulting recipe, shared below, is slightly nutty with a buttery crumb that melts on your tongue. “We can eat the batter raw, burnt, or baked,” she says. 

To make it even more special, the team added a layer of buttercream spiced with Burlap and Barrel’s chai, which introduces flavors of cinnamon, cardamom, lemongrass, and orange peel. The cookie sandwich is a brand-new addition to the pastry case at Welton’s, which recently expanded into a larger building next door to its original home. “The day we signed the lease for the bakery, I told the landlord that if the next-door space ever became available, we wanted it,” Hannah says. Two years later, that opportunity arrived—and not a moment too soon.

Between daily long lines of eager customers and an itty-bitty kitchen, Welton’s had been “busting at the seams,” she says. The team of bakers would begin work at four in the morning, pulling treats from the oven, washing pastries, and filling danishes, but had to halt production four hours later to open doors. The new café grants all-day baking, a full coffee program with beans from Durham’s Counter Culture Coffee, and an expanded lunch menu with seasonal soups, sandwiches, and side salads. But even with more room, the space is equally cozy thanks to local designers Evan and Diego Gonzalez of Public Regard, who painted the sunlit front room a warm vanilla, laid down speckled terrazzo floors, and installed a curved bar of black walnut and Carrara marble to showcase tiers of sugar-dusted kouign-amanns, soppressata croissants drizzled with hot honey, and slices of the shop’s iconic honey pie. 

Hannah’s most-wanted—and favorite—inclusion? Custom windows that open up to the bustle of King Street, where guests can look out while enjoying a hot cortado and those in line can catch a waft of what’s waiting inside.  


Brown Butter Sandwich Cookies with Chai Spice Buttercream

Yield: 12 sandwich cookies

For the cookies

    • 8 oz. butter, unsalted, room temperature

    • ¼ cup granulated white sugar

    • ½ cup dark brown sugar

    • 2 egg yolks

    • 2 tsp. vanilla extract (Welton’s uses Heilala)

    • 2 cups all-purpose flour

    • 1¼ cup almond flour

    • 1 tsp. kosher salt

    • Powdered sugar, for dusting

For the chai spice buttercream

    • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature

    • 4 cups powdered sugar, sifted

    • 1 tbsp. chai spice (Welton’s uses Burlap & Barrel)

    • 1 tsp. vanilla extract

    • 1tsp. kosher salt

Preparation

  1. Brown the butter: Melt the butter in a light-colored saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it turns golden brown and smells nutty, 5–7 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer to a heatproof bowl to cool.

  2. Mix the dough: In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, paddle brown butter, white sugar, and dark brown sugar on medium speed for 2 minutes until mixture is smooth. With a rubber spatula, make sure to scrape down your mixing bowl.

  3. Add your egg yolks and vanilla extract. Paddle together for another 2 minutes.

  4. Once the above is incorporated, add flour, almond flour, and salt. Mix on the lowest speed until just combined. It is important to not overmix your cookie dough!

  5. Roll and rest cookie dough: Cut 4 pieces of parchment paper the size of your cookie sheet (12-by-16 inches). With a rubber spatula or flexible bench scraper, take your dough and divide it in half among two pieces of parchment paper. Once the dough is equally divided, add a layer of parchment on top of each mound of dough, and with gentle pressure from your hands and rolling pin, roll the dough until you reach all four corners of the parchment paper. Aim for your dough to be ¼-inch thick. Transfer parchment-paper dough sheets to the fridge and let rest for at least one hour (or overnight).

  6. Cut and bake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove dough from refrigerator. Remove top layer of parchment paper and place on desired baking trays. 

  7. With desired cookie cutter—Welton’s prefer 3-inch star shape, but any holiday shape will do the trick—punch through your dough, trying to place each cut as close to the other as possible for the highest yield. Immediately use an offset spatula or a butter knife to transfer the cut-out dough to lined sheet trays, leaving at least one inch between each cookie.

  8. Repeat punching out all the dough until all you have left is dough trimmings. You can mold trimmings back together, reroll, and punch out shapes to yield a few extra cookies.

  9. Once your oven is accurately preheated (this is super important), bake cookies for 15–18 minutes until golden in color.

  10. Make the chai spice buttercream: In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, put all of the buttercream ingredients in the mixing bowl. Paddle until smooth. Transfer to a piping bag if possible. If you don’t have a piping bag, you can easily use two spoons to spoon and sandwich your cookies.

  11. Assemble: Once your cookies are cool, sandwich your cookies with your chai spice buttercream. Once cookies are sandwiched, dust them with powdered sugar and enjoy immediately! They are good for up to 3 days in a tight, sealed container or up to a week in the fridge.


Gabriela Gomez-Misserian, Garden & Gun’s digital producer, joined the magazine in 2021 after studying English and studio art in Virginia’s Shenandoah Valley. She is an oil painter and gardener, often uniting her interests to write about creatives—whether artists, naturalists, designers, or curators—across the South. Gabriela paints and lives in downtown Charleston with her golden retriever rescue, Clementine.


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