“Roasting concentrates the flavor of tomatoes, meaning you can make this soup with less-than-stellar, out-of-season tomatoes, and it’s still fantastic. (But make it when local tomatoes are at their best, and you’ll knock your own socks off.) The addition of lady cream peas makes this taste like the best possible version of childhood alphabet soup, with the little white beans playing the part of those pasta letters and numbers—although I’m afraid all you’ll be able to spell is “********.” The bean cooking liquid helps add a silkiness, so if you are substituting canned beans, you’ll lose some of that.” —Joe Yonan

Reprinted with permission from Cool Beans: The Ultimate Guide to Cooking with the World’s Most Versatile Plant-Based Protein, with 125 Recipes by Joe Yonan, copyright © 2020. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House.