When past and future presidents Thomas Jefferson and Martin Van Buren met up in 1824 at Crossroads Inn in North Garden, Virginia, a then-not-so-quick fifteen miles southwest of Charlottesville, their conversation likely centered on politics and matters of state. But if their focus did drift to the bucolic view of surrounding countryside, they hardly could have been blamed. Today, the impressively preserved inn still provides refuge to travelers and, especially in fall, a prime spot for leaf peepers.
Crossroads presents itself now much as it did then. The three-story, double-pile brick structure, bracketed by tall twin chimneys and topped with a tin gable roof, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and designated a Virginia Historic Landmark. The interior, with its heart-pine floors and steep staircases leading to just five soothingly cozy rooms, transports guests to a bygone era without even a hint of the cobwebby must that sometimes comes with such preservation. Extra credit is earned for remaining TV free except for in the separate Pippin Cottage. “Crossroads Inn is a reminder that less can be more, enough is a feast, and little compares to a quiet fireside chat on a cool evening,” says general manager and concierge Matt Lovelady.
Built in 1820 as a tavern, Crossroads wasn’t always so tranquil, as crops and other goods rolled along the turnpike below on a journey from the Shenandoah Valley to the James River at what is now Scottsville. The tavern fed farmers, merchants, and other travelers three meals a day, boarded horses, functioned as a de facto bank, and even sold children’s shoes—though an 1850s ledger shows it sold much more whiskey. Modern passersby are more likely heading next door to Pippin Hill Farm & Vineyards, the owners of which acquired and refreshed the adjoining Crossroads property in 2022. The inn is so tucked into its own lushly landscaped grounds and mature stand of trees, however, that non-guests are seldom aware of its existence.
In fall, those trees paint a pointillist backdrop of yellow, orange, and red. Venturing beyond the property, guests can wind south along Route 29 through beautiful Nelson County down to Lynchburg, or explore more than a dozen area wineries within an hour’s drive.
Before such an outing, chef Joe Koscielniak serves a three-course breakfast made of mostly local ingredients, including eggs from the on-site chicken coop. (Yes, he’ll allow you to gather those eggs if you like.) On a recent morning, an aged white cheddar omelet and maple-pecan French toast demonstrated how gourmet a “country breakfast” can be in the right hands. Such a meal is reason enough for a return stay even after the last leaf has fallen.
