Seagrove, North Carolina, is a place where craftsmen still get their hands dirty. Known as the pottery capital of the United States, the Seagrove area is home to approximately one hundred working potters, among a population of less than three hundred people. The fifty or so shops, studios, and galleries along NC Highway 705, known as the Pottery Highway, regularly open to the public, including during April’s annual Celebration of Spring kiln openings.
Just as she forms pots, Kate Waltman says the little artisan enclave has shaped her. The New Jersey native moved to Seagrove fifteen years ago and turned what was once the Triangle Service Station into The Triangle Studio. “I’ve had community support from the beginning,” Waltman says. Anne Partna of Blue Hen Pottery taught her how to direct a firing. Ben Owen III was always there for advice. David Stuempfle told her she could build her own wood-fire kiln. And she did. “If you get stuck,” she remembers Stuempfle telling her, “there are ten people you could call within ten minutes of you that have the answer.”
To explore the scene as an outsider, Waltman suggests starting with a map from the NC Pottery Center (which also provides public restrooms) or the gallery at Seagrove Creations. Here are a few more of Waltman’s recommended stops along NC Highway 705, aka the Pottery Highway.
Generational Potters
“If you’re interested in traditional work, you absolutely have to go to Crystal King,” Waltman says of the sixth-generation potter who makes traditional Southern face jugs. Ben Owen III, known for his signature red and turquoise glazes, is another artist who has long been a part of the community. “His work is spectacular,” Waltman says, “and you can see the big wood kilns there.”
Near Owen’s studio, turn down Busby Road to visit Jugtown Pottery. Dating to 1917 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Jugtown features original log cabins, a working studio, and a museum. “They’re modern people making modern pots,” Waltman says, “but they definitely have an eye toward the traditional work.”
Eck McCanless is Waltman’s nearest pottery studio neighbor; the two are so close they once shared a cat by accident. McCanless is the only potter making agateware, or “swirlware,” in the area. “He puts different colors of clay together, and when he throws it on the wheel, the colors move.”
Sid Luck, a recipient of the NC Living Treasure Award, specializes in traditional ware, including face jugs. He digs local clay for some of his work and teaches classes to schoolchildren to make sure the art form continues. On the opposite end of the age spectrum is Nicole Kluba, who recently set up shop in the Erect area of Seagrove, about seven miles from the town center. “She’s making good work and participating in the community,” Waltman says of the town’s newest potter, “so we really want to see her succeed.”
Expanding the Form
“I always try to send people to the places where I know they’re going to have a good time,” Waltman says. She recommends Seagrove Stoneware Pottery for modern pieces that serve as functional tableware and Seagrove Art Pottery for wild and colorful designs. “It’s just an absolute riot of color when you go in there,” she adds.
Waltman’s own Triangle Studio sits nearby, housing modern pottery by various makers, including herself and business partner Erin Younge. Stop into Johnston and Gentithes for artful animal sculptures and pieces that make use of both wild local clay and English porcelain. Dean and Martin also goes on what Waltman calls the “fun” list. “Stephanie Martin makes these Andy Warhol–like pop art pieces.”
Beyond Clay
Seagrove is home to Carolina Bronze Sculpture, which visitors can tour by appointment. Owner and artist Ed Walker also displays his work in the former Luck’s Cannery, now a town hub featuring an event hall. And for garden lovers, Linda Thorne sells a variety of flowers at Seagrove Orchids and gives advice on their care.
Where to Eat and Stay
If you’re planning to stay a night or two instead of just pass through, local potters and couple David Fernandez and Alexa Modderno run Seagrove Stoneware Inn. “It’s a giant old house they’ve converted,” Waltman says. For something a bit more secluded, the charming Postcard Cabins sit just outside of town.
Seagrove Café is a popular morning starting point for coffee and baked goods. “It’s a wonderful place to stop if you’re looking for a lighter meal or snack,” Waltman says. The General Wine & Brew, also owned by Fernandez and Modderno, carries a surprisingly wide selection of wines. “David’s also our mayor, which is the funniest thing,” Waltman says. “He’s usually our bartender.” La Fiesta Mexicana is a favorite spot for carry-out tacos, and “it’s just a great place to hang out,” Waltman says. And for the locals’ favorite burgers, Cagle’s Diner stands right across from Ben Owen’s pottery shop.
