“The only constant is change,” is a cliché that’s routinely slapped on a dining scene that welcomes new restaurants on a weekly basis as Charleston does. But it’s perhaps more accurate to say Charleston’s constant is okra soup. Although gumbo’s Lowcountry cousin is rarely referenced in the city’s fanciest restaurants, it’s still served in homes and affordable luncheonettes, which is why B.J. Dennis, a personal chef and caterer, believed it deserved a page in New Charleston Cuisine. Dennis’ version of the traditional soup is made with shrimp, rather than beef, which usually governs the tomato broth. But disagreeing about tradition is a local constant too.