Food & Drink

Bourbon Beyond the Bluegrass

Explore bourbon’s range with these six bottles from unexpected states that bring their own distinctive taste of place
A grid of bourbons

Kentucky produces about 95 percent of the world’s bourbon, but that still leaves quite a few barrels in need of sampling from the other forty-nine states. (No, bourbon needn’t be made only in Kentucky, and, yes, distillers make bourbon in most every state, even Hawaii and Alaska.) Without a doubt, the Bluegrass State has an extraordinary bourbon-making climate, deep aquifers of limestone-filtered water, and a couple of centuries of tradition to lean on. But other regions have been exploring the craft of bourbon making, creating new traditions and learning how to age their whiskey in vastly varying climates. That’s resulted in a rainbow of taste profiles, as these six bottles make clear. The upshot for bourbon fans: You can take a trip around the country without leaving your favorite chair.   

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Utah

High West Distillery
Bottled in Bond Straight Bourbon Whiskey
100 proof, $80

A bottle of bourbon

A sense of high-altitude aridity seems to come through in this puckery bourbon made in Wanship, Utah, aged for at least four years and bottled at 100 proof (as with all bottled-in-bond whiskeys). It’s a high-rye bourbon (64 percent corn and 36 percent rye), and there’s a pleasingly soft creamed corn taste on entry, with an array of tightly structured spicy notes to give it spine. It pairs superbly with an Arturo Fuente maduro cigar.


Indiana

Starlight Distillery 
Huber’s Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Japanese Mizunara Barrels
116 proof, $150

A bottle of bourbon

Mizunara-finished whiskeys are a special breed, spending time in casks of this flavorful variety of oak, which grows only in Japan. Elegant cognac notes with a touch of perfumed wood greet you in this bourbon from Indiana’s Starlight, then something deeper takes over, like a Milky Way bar fresh out of the wrapper. The aroma suggests a complicated architecture, something built of fragrant and sturdy wood. It’s chewy and robust on entry, with notes of sandalwood, vanilla bean, and weathered cedar. Even though it’s made more or less just across the river from Kentucky, it feels as if it’s coming from oceans away. This is bottled at cask strength but finishes with an unexpected gentleness. 


Texas

TX Whiskey
Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Tawny Port Casks
101.6 proof, $65

A bottle of bourbon

No surprise: Like most Texas whiskey, this one doesn’t whisper; it shouts. The huge swings in the state’s temperatures ensure that the oak barrels work overtime. The result is a deeply rich bourbon, with dense dark chocolate notes, tempered here by the lingering vinous notes of the port barrels. If you’ve ever sipped a quality bourbon and thought, that’s good, but I want more of that good, TX Whiskey might be what you’re looking for. It tastes like a rodeo sounds—raucous and a bit out of control. Expect notes of fresh lumber, deeply charred oak, cracked pepper, and dried fruit to jostle for attention.    


Wyoming

Wyoming Whiskey
Small Batch Straight Bourbon Whiskey
88 proof, $32

A bourbon bottle

Founded nearly two decades ago, Wyoming Whiskey prides itself on being able to contain a large state in a small bottle. It uses grains grown within a hundred miles of the distillery—the mash bill for its flagship bourbon is 68 percent corn, 20 percent wheat, and 12 percent malted barley—and draws its water from a mile-deep limestone aquifer. The aroma carries notes of candy corn with a touch of cedar. The first sip is intriguing, soft and accommodating, then blossoms through a cascade of peppery notes before a ginger snap finish. 


Maine

Wiggly Bridge Distillery
Bottled in Bond Bourbon Whiskey
100 proof, $70

A bourbon bottke

Maine probably isn’t the first place you think of when your thoughts turn to bourbon, but this high-rye expression (57 percent corn, 38 percent rye, 5 percent malted barley) seems to capture the state’s rugged maritime character. Coastal aging conditions impart unique qualities, evident in a complex nose of pipe tobacco and vanilla. The palate delivers waves of black pepper spice that dance with golden honey, while touches of clove add warmth. The finish reveals something like cracked leather. Wiggly Bridge embraces the same attention to detail found in the state’s celebrated restaurants, proving that exceptional bourbon can emerge from lobster country.


Iowa

Cedar Ridge Distillery
Barrel Proof Straight Bourbon Whiskey
116 Proof, $49

A bottle of bourbon

This whiskey takes you on a gentle journey—a low-rye mash bill (74 percent Iowa corn, 14 percent malted rye, 12 percent malted barley) and aging in #3 char barrels create a softer, less aggressive profile than traditional heavy-char, high-rye bourbons. Non-climate-controlled rickhouses expose the spirit to extreme Midwest temperature swings of more than a hundred degrees annually, leading to strong flavor development. Expect a bright, almost minty nose followed by an unexpectedly smooth entry despite the higher proof. The whiskey showcases middle-range flavors that bring to mind Irish whiskey’s sipability. Adding a splash of water transforms it into an even silkier experience—like capturing a warm summer evening in liquid form.


Wayne Curtis is the author of And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails and has written frequently about cocktails, spirits, travel, and history for many publications, including the Atlantic, the New York Times, Imbibe, Punch, the Daily Beast, Sunset, the Wall Street Journal, and Garden & Gun. He lives on the Gulf Coast.


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