Rice is prevalent in many desserts the world over, from steamed mango sticky rice in Thailand to Mexico’s arroz con leche, but the most common rice dessert in the South is creamy rice pudding. It’s a great blank canvas for ripe summer peaches, and in this recipe, you get to learn how to make a classic crème anglaise custard, a base widely utilized for ice cream, tarts, and (with added starch) pastry cream, which can be used for eclairs, pies, or cakes.

Take care to whisk the eggs while adding the hot milk; this will temper them and prevent the curdling that happens when their temperature increases too quickly. Also, be sure to use short grain rice. Not only will it hold its shape well, but its chewy texture will burst with the flavor of the custard after they marry in the refrigerator for a couple hours. —Ron Hsu, Down South + East.
Read our Q&A with Hsu, and get his recipes for char siu glazed ribs and pimento cheese wontons.






