Food & Drink

If You Own Only One Piece of Cast-Iron Cookware, Make It This One

We asked three Southern chefs: If you were frying chicken on a desert island, which skillet would you want?

A wall of cast iron pots and pans

Photo: PETER FRANK EDWARDS


Forcing Southern chefs to choose a favorite piece from among their cast-iron arsenals is like asking them to choose between children—but we did it anyway! To ease the pain, the three chefs were allowed to say nice things about the runners-up before making the final cut, on which there was surprising consensus. So whether you’re purchasing your first piece of cast iron or expanding your cherished collection, read on.

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Alejandro Najar

The Butcher’s Cellar, Waco, Texas

Runners-up: “Must-haves include an eight-inch and a ten-inch pan, along with another pan that has handles that make it easier to move from stovetop to oven and out again. For soups and stews, get a cast-iron Dutch oven that can also be used for other slow cooking. Lodge makes a great one. Cast-iron servers are great for keeping food nice and hot. Fajitas? Use an oval server. Side dishes? Again, Lodge makes these rectangle mini-servers that work well for serving veggies and potatoes.”

The one: “I inherited a twelve-inch skillet that’s special. I grew up with my grandmother, who used that one cast-iron pan to cook everything!”


Brian Burns

Costera and Osteria Lupo, New Orleans

Runners-up: “Cast-iron pieces are some of our most used at the restaurants. At Osteria Lupo, we use cast-iron skillets for a variety of dishes that go into our wood-fired oven and then straight to the table. And we use fifteen-inch and eight-inch dual-handled pans to cook and serve paella at Costera, which makes for a show-stopping presentation. Personally, I think a ten-and-a-half-inch griddle is great for eggs, pancakes, or even a panini.”

The one: “If I have to pick just one, the pan that gets used most in my home kitchen is a twelve-inch skillet, whether I’m quickly searing spring vegetables, cooking proteins, or braising one-pot meals for family dinner. It practically lives on my stovetop.”


Jeff Tunks

Corvina, Boca Raton, Florida

Runners-up: “Growing up in a Midwest farm family, cast iron played a big role in everyday cooking at our house, and I’m still a big fan. Smaller pans are great service pieces for different presentations such as gratins, macaroni and cheese, queso fundido, and shakshuka. For urban situations without access to an outdoor grill, I highly recommend a cast-iron grill pan for grilling fish, shrimp, vegetables, and steaks. Use a Dutch oven for soups, stews, and chili and for braising larger cuts of protein like short ribs, lamb shanks, veal osso buco, and pot roast.”

The one: “By far, my most used and versatile piece is a twelve-inch skillet. You can cook almost anything in this magical pan. Like what? How about cornbread, chicken-fried steak, sausage gravy, cinnamon rolls, chicken and dumplings, stuffed pork chops, smash burgers…shall I go on?”


Steve Russell is a Garden & Gun contributing editor who also has written for Men’s Journal, Life, Rolling Stone, and Playboy. Born in Mississippi and raised in Tennessee, he resided in New Orleans and New York City before settling down in Charlottesville, Virginia, because it’s far enough south that biscuits are an expected component of a good breakfast.


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