Food & Drink

If You Own Only One Piece of Cast-Iron Cookware, Make It This One

We asked three Southern chefs: If you were frying chicken on a desert island, which skillet would you want?

A wall of cast iron pots and pans

Photo: PETER FRANK EDWARDS


Forcing Southern chefs to choose a favorite piece from among their cast-iron arsenals is like asking them to choose between children—but we did it anyway! To ease the pain, the three chefs were allowed to say nice things about the runners-up before making the final cut, on which there was surprising consensus. So whether you’re purchasing your first piece of cast iron or expanding your cherished collection, read on.

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Alejandro Najar

The Butcher’s Cellar, Waco, Texas

Runners-up: “Must-haves include an eight-inch and a ten-inch pan, along with another pan that has handles that make it easier to move from stovetop to oven and out again. For soups and stews, get a cast-iron Dutch oven that can also be used for other slow cooking. Lodge makes a great one. Cast-iron servers are great for keeping food nice and hot. Fajitas? Use an oval server. Side dishes? Again, Lodge makes these rectangle mini-servers that work well for serving veggies and potatoes.”

The one: “I inherited a twelve-inch skillet that’s special. I grew up with my grandmother, who used that one cast-iron pan to cook everything!”


Brian Burns

Costera and Osteria Lupo, New Orleans

Runners-up: “Cast-iron pieces are some of our most used at the restaurants. At Osteria Lupo, we use cast-iron skillets for a variety of dishes that go into our wood-fired oven and then straight to the table. And we use fifteen-inch and eight-inch dual-handled pans to cook and serve paella at Costera, which makes for a show-stopping presentation. Personally, I think a ten-and-a-half-inch griddle is great for eggs, pancakes, or even a panini.”

The one: “If I have to pick just one, the pan that gets used most in my home kitchen is a twelve-inch skillet, whether I’m quickly searing spring vegetables, cooking proteins, or braising one-pot meals for family dinner. It practically lives on my stovetop.”


Jeff Tunks

Corvina, Boca Raton, Florida

Runners-up: “Growing up in a Midwest farm family, cast iron played a big role in everyday cooking at our house, and I’m still a big fan. Smaller pans are great service pieces for different presentations such as gratins, macaroni and cheese, queso fundido, and shakshuka. For urban situations without access to an outdoor grill, I highly recommend a cast-iron grill pan for grilling fish, shrimp, vegetables, and steaks. Use a Dutch oven for soups, stews, and chili and for braising larger cuts of protein like short ribs, lamb shanks, veal osso buco, and pot roast.”

The one: “By far, my most used and versatile piece is a twelve-inch skillet. You can cook almost anything in this magical pan. Like what? How about cornbread, chicken-fried steak, sausage gravy, cinnamon rolls, chicken and dumplings, stuffed pork chops, smash burgers…shall I go on?”


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