Chris Shepherd, this year’s winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest, and his full-time butcher go to work on an entire cow every single week. Which means that they have to find creative uses for each part of the animal—including the ribs, which carry a whole lot of meat. “One day, we had ribs left over,” Shepherd says, “and we were like, ‘Let’s just braise and fry these damn things. It’ll be delicious!’ And that’s where the chicken-fried short ribs came from.” In a state where diners take chicken-fried steak very seriously, these ribs are a nod to tradition but with more texture and flavor than the customary eye of round. “It’s chicken-fried steak, but it’s also not,” Shepherd says. “When you bite into it, it’s meaty, tender, and thick.”