“Dirty rice is as common at the Cajun table as mashed potatoes and gravy is elsewhere,” says chef Isaac Toups, owner of Toups’ Meatery and author of the cookbook Chasing the Gator. “It’s the meatiest, richest rice dish you’ll ever eat, and it gets its color, its dirtiness, from glorious, glorious meat. The trick to this dish is getting a good char on the ground beef. I like to use ground sirloin, keeping it in a block and searing it like I would a steak before the meat is broken up and braised. That caramelized meat makes the difference between a good pot of dirty rice and something you’d be embarrassed to serve a Cajun grandmother.”
“Just before you combine the meat mixture with the rice, you’ve basically got a dark roux chili,” he says. “If you added some fresh tomato and cooked it down until it’s nice and tight, you’d have a killer ragu for an incredible lasagna.”