Pour glasses of Southern Italian wine (Frappato or Falanghina) as you serve this dish, says chef Pat Pascarella, who runs the White Bull in Decatur, Georgia. The child of Italian immigrants, Pascarella remembers his mother rising at 3 a.m. on Christmas Eve to prepare the family’s Feast of the Seven Fishes. Now, he riffs on many of those recipes; these grilled sardines with the flavors of Sicily will be on his special seafood menu before Christmas.