Spectacular. That’s the word that came to mind the first time New Orleans native Chris Borges laid eyes on a watermelon radish. “I was in school in California, in the mecca of sustainable agriculture and farm-to-table, and so we were seeing a lot of great produce, including the watermelon radish,” says Borges, now the executive chef at Commons Club at Virgin Hotels New Orleans. “There’s no other word. Their beauty speaks for itself.” Native to China, the radish doesn’t actually taste like watermelon, but slice into one and you’ll immediately understand where it gets its name. The interior is bright reddish pink, with contrasting green edging. And it’s not just a pretty face. It has a milder flavor than a typical red radish, which makes for easy eating, and “without a doubt, I think it has the best texture of any radish,” Borges says. “The meat is a bit firmer and denser than some of your smaller radishes and even your daikon, and it gets crispier than any other.” Watermelon radishes reach peak sweetness after developing sugars in the ground all winter, usually around early March. At a farm stand or market, choose any that feel heavy for their size and are firm and blemish-free. Then simply scrub, slice thin (a mandoline is best for the job), and pair with other early spring veggies—snap peas and snow peas are excellent choices. One of Borges’s favorite preps is in a simple crudo with an anchovy dressing and shaved Parmesan (see recipe). “I don’t like to complicate things with watermelon radish,” he says. “It’s the star—the belle of the ball.”
