“A pandowdy’s a pie that’s got only a top crust, often one made of odd-shaped pieces of dough,” writes the author Dorie Greenspan in her new cookbook, Baking with Dorie. “The dessert was probably created to put pastry scraps to good use. My favorite way to make it is to cut triangles of pie dough and arrange them in a mishmash over the fruit. Neatness is never the point with a pandowdy—it’s the haphazardness, the dowdiness of the pie, that makes it beautiful. When you bring it to the table, break up the crust, let it fall into the filling and then spoon out into bowls.
You can put spices in the filling, but I hope you’ll try this spare lemon-up-front version first. Having apple pie without cinnamon may seem un-American; in fact, it’s unassailably good. I make this dessert throughout the year with whatever fruits are plentiful.”
Read our interview with Greenspan about baking, memories of the South, and biscuits.