Recipe

Charred Veggies, Cajun-Style

New Orleans chef Isaac Toups turns a seasonal vegetable spread into a smoky, bacon-laced showstopper

A BOWL OF GRILLED VEGGIES

Photo: Denny Culbert


Chef Isaac Toups may be best known for rich, slow-cooked cuts like confit chicken thighs and tender lamb neck (two menu highlights at Toups Meatery in New Orleans’ Mid-City neighborhood), but vegetables often star in the dishes he makes at home. At work and or in his own kitchen, his cooking reflects his deep South Louisiana roots and love of big, layered flavors—including the smoky richness of bacon. “Want to make your vegetables taste better and have your friends love you?” Toups says. “Char the hell out of some on the grill and then toss them in a bacon vinaigrette.”

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This dish, a personal favorite not served at the restaurant, proves that the garden isn’t just for rabbit food. “These are vegetables so unhealthy a Cajun might actually eat them,” Toups jokes. He recommends using whatever’s fresh and in season—zucchini, eggplant, green beans, radicchio—and grilling them hot and fast. The key is high heat: “They should be really crispy and charred, not all wimpy and overcooked.”

What takes the dish over the top is a warm vinaigrette spiked with anchovies, garlic, and rendered bacon fat. “This is never going to be a fully emulsified vinaigrette, so don’t fret if it looks like it’s breaking,” Toups advises. Toss the grilled vegetables in the vinaigrette, top with crumbled bacon, and serve. Backyard cookouts may never be the same.


Grilled Garden Vegetables with Bacon Vinaigrette

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients

    • 8 slices thick-cut bacon

    • 5 cloves garlic, peeled

    • 3 anchovy filets

    • ½ cup apple cider vinegar

    • ½ cup canola oil

    • 1 lb. assorted vegetables, cut into ¼-inch slices

    • 1½ tsp. kosher salt

    • 1 tsp. ground black pepper

    • ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

    • 1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

Preparation

  1. Preheat the grill to high heat (about 500°F) and preheat the oven to 400°F.

  2. Place the bacon slices on a rimmed baking sheet and cook in the oven for about 20 minutes, until the bacon is crispy. Remove the bacon and reserve the baking sheet with the rendered fat. Crumble the bacon and set aside.

  3. In a blender, combine the garlic, anchovies, and vinegar and put the lid on. Turn the blender on and slowly drizzle in the canola oil. Add the reserved bacon fat (about 1 tbsp., but if you have more from cooking your bacon, just toss it all in) and keep the blender buzzing for 5 seconds to combine all the ingredients. Keep warm.

  4. “I like to put it in a metal container, like a mixing bowl, and keep it by the grill while I cook the vegetables,” says Toups. “The vinaigrette doesn’t need to be hot, just not too cold because the bacon fat will congeal if you let it.”

  5. In a large bowl or on a rimmed baking sheet, toss the vegetables with the salt, pepper, pepper flakes, and olive oil. Place the vegetables on the hot grill in a single layer and cook on each side for about 2 minutes. “They should char on the outside while keeping the crunch or snap of fresh crudités,” he says. 

  6. Remove the vegetables from the grill and put in a nonreactive bowl. To serve, toss the vegetables in the bacon vinaigrette and top with the crumbled bacon.


Emily Daily is newsletter editor at Garden & Gun. A native of Lynchburg, Virginia, she was an equestrian sports journalist for fifteen years prior to joining the magazine in 2022. She lives just outside Charleston with her photographer husband, Josh; their daughter, Indigo; two dogs, Ruby and Khaleesi; and pony, Cady.


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